Coastal Geography & Dining Monograph • 2026 Edition

Kalpazankaya: Counterfeiters' Rock & Golden Sunsets

Perched on the rugged western precipice of Burgazada, Kalpazankaya ("Counterfeiters' Rock") is universally acclaimed as the most dramatic natural vantage point in the entire Princes' Islands archipelago. Here, sheer limestone crags plunge vertically into the Sea of Marmara, framing unobstructed views toward the setting sun and the distant maritime horizon.

1. Historical Origins: Why "Counterfeiters' Rock"?

In Turkish, kalpazan translates literally to "counterfeiter" or "coin forger". During the twilight decades of the Ottoman Empire in the mid-19th century, Istanbul’s monetary system was rocked by waves of debased and counterfeit metallic currency. The sheer, inaccessible sea cliffs on the western flank of Burgazada offered the ideal hideout for illicit mint masters.

Accessible only by small rowboats navigating treacherous underwater reefs or by descending narrow goat tracks down the cliffside, the deep sea caves beneath Kalpazankaya concealed charcoal kilns and stamping dies. The sound of waves crashing against the rocks muffled the rhythmic clinking of heavy metal hammers, while chimney smoke dissipated harmlessly into the maritime winds blowing off the open sea. By the time Ottoman naval police raided the site in the late 1800s, the counterfeiters had fled into the labyrinth of Istanbul’s alleys, leaving behind only crucible shards and a name forever etched into island lore.

2. The Kalpazankaya Dining Experience

In 1959, the local Keleş family cleared a series of tiered dirt terraces beneath gnarled Mediterranean red pines (*Pinus brutia*) and established Kalpazankaya Restaurant. Today, the venue is an Istanbul culinary institution that has hosted statesmen, foreign ambassadors, and generations of Turkish poets—including Sait Faik, who made it his favored sunset writing station.

The culinary centerpiece is Kuyu Tandır (pit-roasted lamb). Fresh milk-fed lamb is rubbed with coarse sea salt, oregano, and crushed garlic, suspended inside deep brick-lined underground pits over smoldering oak and pine embers, and sealed airtight with wet clay. Over three to four hours of slow subterranean smoking, the meat becomes extraordinarily tender, pulling apart with the gentle touch of a fork while retaining a crisp, mahogany-colored crust.

Accompany the tandır with a spread of classic cold mezes: smoky roasted eggplant salad (*közde patlıcan*), creamy fava bean puree drizzled with cold-pressed olive oil, fresh sea samphire (*deniz börülcesi*), and thinly shaved lakerda (cured bonito). Add a glass of iced anise-flavored rakı as the sun dips below the horizon in an incandescent blaze of vermilion, amber, and violet. Average dinner costs range from 1,200 to 2,000 TL (~€32 – €55 / $35 – $60 USD) per person including wine or rakı.

3. The Descent to Kalpazankaya Cove

Directly beside the restaurant terrace begins a steep flight of stone stairs cut into the red soil and granite bedrock. Descending through wild rosemary and wind-bent juniper bushes, you reach the secluded sea cove below.

Unlike the sandy beaches of the mainland, the shore here consists of polished grey and terracotta pebbles flanked by smooth sunbathing rocks. The water is remarkably clear and deep, offering excellent snorkeling along submerged boulders where schools of Mediterranean damselfish (*Chromis chromis*) and black sea bream dart through sea grass beds. A small wooden sun deck is erected during the summer months with sun lounger rentals (approximately 250–350 TL for the day), though many visitors prefer laying their towels directly on the warm, flat rock ledges.

4. Walking & Transit Routes to Kalpazankaya

Route Option	Transit Time	Distance & Gradient	Cost	Highlights
Coastal Walking Promenade (Gönüllü Caddesi)	35–45 mins	2.8 km (gentle rolling slope)	Free	Passes historical timber villas, sea views, shaded pines
Municipal Electric Adabüs Shuttle	8–10 mins	2.8 km (direct paved road)	35–45 TL (Istanbulkart)	Comfortable, effortless, frequent departures from pier
Multi-Gear Rental Bicycle	15–20 mins	2.8 km (moderate climb near finish)	100–150 TL / hour	Breezy coastal ride; requires strong brakes on return